Ewa of Threes and the Green Sea Turtle

We went to Hawaii for two weeks in August, four days on Kauai and the rest in Manoa Valley, where our family home is. Kauai was a bit to much for me, and as usual, I got dizzy for the first few days and was basically useless. Yes, like riding a bus, I got sick driving the POS rental car as well as driving up to Koke'e, which is all winding roads like Baguio or Big Bear.

Anyway, Kauai is a bit too rural for me and the island is too full of tourists for my taste. Oahu was another story. Jeremy and I paddled out at Ala Moana Bowls and caught some pretty good waves on the first day, while the rest of the surf sessions were at Waiks. As for the surfing, I surfed threes for the most part all the time and decided to just paddle right past Queens and Canoes. While we lived on Oahu, I tended to avoid paddling out to Threes,as it was just too far of a paddle. but on this trip, it became my new favorite wave (Bowls will always be my favorite, but for Waiks, Threes is it). Everytime I surfed it I caught my share of waves, but it was the last night of our vacation that I really caught it good. Around 4:30pm I paddled out to an already crowded lineup at Threes, and having just an 8-oh while everyone else was riding a 9 oh or bigger, I wasn't able to catch much, not to mention the haole surfers who just dropped in, as well as the Tandem Haole kook who didn't know how to share waves, taking off on everything on his tandem board. I just got sick of it. I noticed there was a little right peeler right off the Sheraton Waikiki Hotel, which was about a 30 meter paddle toward Bowls, Ewa side. I decided what the heck, there is no one on it, and I might get lucky. How did I. I proceeded to surf that spot, all by myself for about 2 1/2 hours, catching all the waves I wanted to catch. After a particularly good ride, I then just thought to myself, Why did I leave this beautiful place? I then asked for a sign from God, asking how I can get back to Hawaii. And at that moment, a Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle surfaced right next to me, and as it dived down, a set rolled through, of which I proceeded to catch three waves in a row. At this time it was past 8pm and dark, so I started the long paddle back to shore, praying that a bad sign, like a shark, didn't pop up. So, Jeremy came up with the notion that the three waves equals three more years until we move back.

I can't wait. Next time it will be for good.