I've never seen her do it

Jeremy and I surfed Huntington Beach at the apartments Saturday, as Newport has been flat for a while already. It wasn't the pier mind you, but the apartments, which is just north of the pier. but the surfers there are still the same, which reinforces my distaste for HB. The waves were pretty good, about 3 to 4 with occasional 5 ft faces. I was riding the Ole 9'6 and jeremy was body boarding his Rheopaipo. Anyway, Jeremy took off deep on this killer right, way overhead, and dropped in on a clean wave. It was so good that I wanted to drop in on him, but. . . well he is my son and I wanted him to enjoy the wave. Anyway, he makes a clean drop and I paddle wait for him to paddle back out and I see this guy talking to Jeremy. I was wondering what the guy was saying to Jeremy, because he got a clean wave with no one else taking off. Turns out the guy was telling jeremy that a chick on a longboard bailed on her board on the wave, and the board got dangerously close to hitting Jeremy. I paddled over to the guy to see what was up and he told me what happened. So I asked him who the girl was and he pointed her out. So I paddled over to the girl and her possee and proceeded to tell her, in a very nice way that she can't be bailing on her board when someone is riding the wave. She said sorry and I thought that was it, and then two of her guy friends came over and decided to inject themselves into the discussion, even though it was none of their business. One of them says whats the problem and I say there is no problem and the girl says there is no problem, but the guy wanted to be an asshole so I tell him what I told the girl, that she can't bail on her board when someone is riding the wave. That is rule number two, don't bail on your board when someone is riding it. Then the guy says, "well, I've been surfing with her for a long time and I've never seen her do that." And I say, Well she did and she has to hold onto her board no matter what, it doens't matter if she takes a pounding, she can't let go of her board." And I paddled away. I didn't get pissed at those idiots. the girl was cool about it but the two guys were total assholes, like it wasn't her fault. yeah fucking right. It is assholes like them who just make me hate living in Orange County.

Pray to Kelea

Sheesh, there is still absolutely no surf at my local break. I am at my wit's end. Actually, it has really become a bummer that the surf has been so shitty, the negativity is really getting at me, and I need to do something about it right now. Hmmm, I can look at all the cool pictures on the Internet that shows the various tubes in Hawaii. . . no, that ain't gonna do it. I can go surf Huntington. With that crowd where everyone wants to be the next kelly slater? screw that. . . What about watching Riding Giants on the big screen? Opps! I sent that projector back to InFocus months ago. Well what the F can I do? Look through some surf magazines? That is like thumbing through Penthouse. Really it is. Surfer Magazine always shows the killer surf spots around the world with perfect barrels, just like Penthouse showed beautiful, yet unobtainable women with perfect. . . well you know. I guess I just need to pray to Kelea for surf. What about it Kelea, can you send some waves? I need to get tubed!

no surf

I have been in a funk the last few days and I can only attribute it to lack of surf. it has been totally flat for more than a week, and I have only surfed once, in micro ankle slappers. When it gets like this, I always trip out. My dreams have been weird lately, like last night, Adrian's parents were over and his mom and dad were smoking in my house. Now what does that have to do with anything? Well, it is justa dream and you can't really think anything of them, nor can you control the outcome of them, although sometimes you do. lately I have been thinking about the past, and the things that I said and did in the past. Some say you should always look forward, and never look back, but oftentimes I find myself thinking alot about what my life was like 15-20 years ago and what it is like today. Yesterday I was over at my friend Mike's house and I made the mistake of saying he was 40 years old, and he really got on my case, "You can't add another year on me. I ain't yet 40," Exactly how he talks. But hey, I always thought he was older, but turns out not by a year. He was born in 67, like me and not 66, like I thought. he was just a year behind me in school but older by several months. Anyway, his wife is pregnant, and due in April, a month after jovi is due to give birth to our last child. I am trying to convince her to get a TL but she isn't quite interested yet, evn though I tell her that she is already going to be 40 when the baby comes out.

Am I ready for another baby? I am pushing 40, (well another year, My b-day is Oct. 23) can I keep up with another punk running around? I am hoping to god that I can be a better father than I am to the two punks that I have now. Fatherhood isn't a walk in the park. I can say though that I've been practicing for a long time and would like to think that I do good in the dad department, but sometimes I question if I am the best that I can be. Am I taking an active interest in their lives? Do I do my best? I try, but never have I gotten any feedback on how I've done. I just try to do the best for the situation at hand, and hope everything comes out the best. I also question lately if I am a good husband to my wife. that is another thing entirely. I try and do my best but sometimes I question myself, do I do the best I can? I don't know. It has been several days of confusion for me for all things going on in my life right now. I think about the what ifs, but know that the conclusions would always come back wrong, the what ifs, that is. I know what the outcome would have been when I got into it in the first place, and those are the reasons that I made the decision to quit. There is nothing like throwing something golden against a wall and having it bounce back in your face. Or blasting a bottle of Halston on a street in a rage. I am sorry for that.

All that Mushy stuff

I had a really weird dream last night. I dreamt that I met up a woman whom I had written off a long time ago. It was really strange because this woman in the dream was a lot more civil and friendly than I had previously remembered the last time there was an exchange between us. We had gone out to dinner and it was cold, and we cruised through some parts of town that you really wouldn't get caught cruising through, yet there we were cruising through it as if nothing happened. The main drag, sort of like Keeaumoku street in Honolulu, was alive with lots of lights and people just hanging out, lots of girlie girlie hostess bars. We went to a house and actually had a friendly conversation. There was a lot of hugging and "all that mushy" stuff but no kissing or anything like that, just what two long lost friends would do if they hadn't seen each other in years. I really don't know what to make of it, other than just a dream. I live my life. She lives her life. We are all happy and that is all that matters, in the dream of course.

State of Denial

The Republican party, no surprise here, is a party of liars and hypocrites. On the one end they have a disgraced congressman Foley who resigned over alleged sexually explicit emails with House pages, 16 year old boys (and girls) who work a semester at the U.S. House of Representatives, running errands and other menial things for congressmen. The Congressman was supposedly a champion in pushing legislation designed to protect children from pedophiles and the like, but it turns out the congressman pushing the legislation in public was a sexual deviant in private.

Next we have the speaker of the house, Sen. Hastert, third in line to the presidency if in the fortunate time the president and VP meet their demise, denying that he knew of the emails.

Following the Speaker is the former chief of staff to the disgraced congressman Foley, who claims that he warned Hastert of the emails more than two years ago.

So who is lying here? Does it matter? While the politicians are denying this and denying that, what about the pages who were exposed to the disgraced congressman's instant messages and emails?

The Republican party is truly in a State of Denial