Thick Fat Beast

I went surfing out at the Point in Newport yesterday. There was a thick fog and the waves were breaking well over head. The Point is a fickle left hander for the most part that breaks on a straight south swell. I never really have good luck with this left hander lately, especially how this one breaks. For the most part, my success rate with this wave is 85/20% success rate. I usually do pretty good with it. The Point though really sucks up and breaks on a sandbar, so the water is super shallow. But yesterday was one of the 20s. Although the conditions were pretty glassy, the fog was obscuring the swell, and I got a little too confident on the first two waves that came in. The third wave, I found myself in the impact zone, and on a board that was too big to punch through it so I got drilled. I don't get drilled too often but this one was a rogue that absolutely hammered me. I saw it coming out of the fog and it was just beastly, a solid 8ft wave with a thick, fat lip. It was a freighttrain. Superpowerful, nobody caught it. I paddled as hard as I could to get over it and was just at the top of the face when I tried to punch through. Didn't make it. The wave proceeded to catch me and throw me down. I didn't get thrown from the lip so it wasn't as bad as it could have been but it was pretty scary nontheless.

Since I am blind as a bat, I wear contacts and I don't open my eyes underwater, but for the most part, i can keep a good sense of which way is up relative to the position of my body. I came up and there was another wave coming in and I got thrashed again. This time though I tried to hold onto my board, which proceeded to whack me up side the head in the process. So called it a day at that spot after only 20 or so minutes out. There was a current like a river pushing toward the Newport Pier and I just really had enough of the Point. So I went and surfed 36th, which is about a mile walk down the beach. The waves were a bit more managemable but at this time I realized that I injured my back and neck. The back injury I think was a result of getting absolutely bent at Sandy's during our family trip to Oahu last month. And the neck injury I think occurred when I got whacked upside the neck. Sio today I have a stiff neck. Hurts to turn, can't look at the pretty girls anymore, just kidding. My neck is stiff and hopefully it will be better tomorrow.