Good Surf

We finally got some good surf this past week. I stayed away from Newport because there was a sewage spill a few weeks back and the beaches were closed. Yep, can you believe it? A freakin sewage spill in Newport beach. Really there is no excuse for such a spill, bt alas, we had one right in our own backyard. Som it was stay out of the water, which totally sucks.
Well it cleaned up and thankfully we have some swell in. Yesterday I went before work and caught some pretty decent surf all to myself. That is another rarity. A bunch of lcoals were surfing the second jetty, because at the time that is the only place where the swell angle was hitting the beach. ewport is weird because it gets shadowed by Catalina Island, and when the swell is the wrong direction, Blackie's doesn't break and is totally flat. But if you walk down two jetties, the waves break. So I walked down and initially paddled out to the corner where all the other surfers were vying for the wave that peaked off the rocks. After just a few waves jockying with the other surfers, I paddled over to the other side of the jetty where nobody was surfing. I was the only one out and I was getting waves all to myself. It was really incredible,m and as I looked at the mad crowd on the other side of the rocks, I was saying, suckers.

The next morning, I met up with Dave, one of the local guys who surfs Newport. Dave was telling me that a bunch of the other surfers were watching me catch all those waves all by myself, yet didn't bother to paddle over. I told him I had a blast all by myself. So today, me and Dave and a several others took turns catching waves off the 32nd street jetty. At one point, during a lull, I paddled over to the other side of the pack, and as I was paddling, a macking set wave came in and guess what, I was the only one deep in position to catch it, and I picked it off, in front of Dano, a local shaper who shapes longboards for a lot of Newport regulars. Dano might have been in position had I not been there, but what can he do, I paddled for it and caught it, a killer left that was an a-frame shape. Almost perfect shape. I rode it all the way down the beach, and upon padding out, some of the guys were congratulating me on a good ride. Then I paddled back to my spot off the rocks. I was wondering to myself, should have I paddled over? Hell yes. It was a fair and square ride. I didn't snake anyone and the wave came straight to me. It was the wave of the day no doubt. And not to be too cocky, on another wave, I pearled pretty ahrd, so much that I did a complete 360 underwater and got water in my ears from the thrashing, but that one wave was just da kine.

laters brah