If it swells. . . Ride it!

The surf has been nothing short of excellent during the past week. Since Dec. 20, the surf has really been nothing short of epic. Tuesday we had some solid surf in the 3 to 5 ft range, not big, but clean shape. I got a few good tube rides on Tuesday. The following Wednesday morning before work, the waves were bigger, about 8ft with 10 to 12 ft faces off the jetties in Newport. I had a lot of fun on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday before work. A big swell from Hawaii wrapped around the islands and hit Newport, which was pretty much the only place holding the swell with any decent shape. HB was like a river and impossible to paddle out. Seal beach was a notable exception as it was breaking 20ft on the south side. We haven't had this much swell this big for a long time, but it has been fairly consistent. the problem though when there is a high surf advisory is all the koooks come out and want to try and catch the waves. It was crowded and for the most part , a lot of these guys don't really belong out there when the waves are so big. It realy makes it harder because now you are dealing with those who don't know the right etiquette, and also, the lineup turns into a parking lot, with speed bumps, so you have to watch out for everyone who may be in the way. Just goes with the territory of surfing in such a crowded place like Newport can be. I sometimes wish it would be a bit more radical so fewer surfers would try to paddle out, but 8 to 10ft is pretty much my max too, then I wouldn't be out to catch the waves either. Did a few Dawn Patrols to reduce the crowd situation, caught a few decent size mackers in the process. overall a good start to the winter surf sessions. I just wish it wasn't so damn cold. I'd like to stay slotted in a warm tube all the time, but that just ain't gonna happen. Except perhaps in the bedroom.