Doheny

I surfed Doheny today for about four hours. The 6-8am session there weren't a whole lot of people out. The water was a bit chilly, I'd say 59, but was prepared as I had the wetsuit on. It was about 1-3ft SW swell, no wind at all, but it was drizzling on the way there. I woke up super early, which is often on Sundays, cause I like to surf as much as possible. I paddled in at around 8am and walked to the car, and said to myself, wtf, I am here, might as well make the most of it. So I went back out and surfed some more, until 10am. I rode the 9'6 OLE, and only had to chase the board three times or so. I got a super nice toes over the nose on this right. The reason I like Doheny is it is good for noseriding, which is what I've been practicing for the last couple of years. I've been getting super bold, scooting up to the nose and seeing how far I can ride it. I just need to work on the cross stepping. Going left is not a problem. I have no problem cross stepping or backpedaling when going left. It is the front side that needs lots of practice. My goal for this summer is to get better at my cross stepping going right, and that means more trips to Doheny when there is a good south swell pumping.